![]() The wires have to be inserted in from the bottom, which is the same side as the socket that was removed. The yellow wire is almost never needed for any reason other than accessories, and is not necessary to this project so that hole will not be used. In the wiring guide enclosed, you will see an explanation behind the five pins. Now to do the next step will require some soldering, so make sure to be careful to not burn yourself. Let this all cool for a few minutes to make sure that the Socket is straight. Wetting your finger tip immediatly after and smoothing the bead will make this smooth and flush (it is a bit hot but you should not burn yourself). On the inside of the assembly, run a small bead of hot glue on the top and bottom sides of the socket. This will ensure the wires will not do any excess bending and will not snap off. Make sure to glue up the end of the socket so that the wires are covered up into the insulation of the wires. Now glue the rear of the socket into the bottom part of the Memory Card assembly. I used masking tape, as the purpose of this is to keep hot glue from seeping into the socket. Take a piece of tape and wrap around the metal USB Socket. After these parts are removed you will see the two memory card sockets exposed. It is also handy to take the analog sticks off (the plastic and rubber parts only, not the entire assembly). after this is done there will be two shiny silver-colored screws on the top side of the board where the analog sticks are located. After this, pry up with a fingernail or flat head screwdriver on the hooks holding the Memory Card socket housing off (this part will have an embossed Microsoft logo on the front of it). Do NOT simply pull off the wires as this can damage the board/sockets/wires/motors. ![]() Using a small flat head screwdriver (or similar prying tool) pry up the tabs holding the motor sockets (white) and pull on the wires holding them together. When you have it opened, you will see two vibration motors inside. Make sure not to lose the screws (a magnet is handy for holding them). ![]() if you only see 6, there is one hiding under the manufacturing sticker (this is done to indicate that there has been tampering, when this was under warranty). To do this, there will be 7 screw holes on this controller that i used. Credit for the Pinout diagram goes to Mike Chambers (who made a Memory Card to USB Adapter, but i simply cut out the middleman and hardwired the USB port directly into the controller!) his project can be seen at: Another helpful resource for anyone undertaking any project using USB will appreciate this site: This site gives some good visual guides on most things USB (even lists iPod and other proprietary connectors).ĭisassemble the XBox controller. This is also handy when you are limited to One Controller/Breakaway combo, like i am, and need to be able to transfer your files and interface at the same time with the XBox. After doing this to my XBox controller, i was able to easily use a Kingston DataTraveller 4 Gigabyte USB stick with ease. Keep in mind that the Memory Card made by Microsoft is a FAT16 Device, but has 8 Megabyte Limitations. This Instructable is a stand-alone, as well as a companion to another Instructable that i have to do an easy Softmod to your Original XBox without needing a Memory Card or Action Replay. ![]()
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